Denali's Howl: The Deadliest Climbing Disaster on America's Wildest Peak

For those that don't know, in the summer of 1967, a 12 man team attempted to climb Denali (Mt. McKinley), the tallest mountain in North America....only 5 came back. I'm astonished that more people don't know (or aren't aware) of this story. I know that when it comes to mountaineering disasters, most eyes turn to Everest, K2, and the rest of the Himalayas and many of the classic books written covering those related tales (Into Thin Air, The Savage Mountain, Annapurna, etc), but I'm hoping that more readers will come to know of this tragic story (it as afterall to this day, the deadliest mountaneering disaster in American history) through Andy Hall's newly written book covering this story.There's been 4 other books written on this tradegy (two from actual survivors) and it was hard to imagine any more new details emerging, but the author went to great lengths to recover and unearth old documents, recordings, interviews, etc and it definitely shows, most notably the details surrounding the "super-storm" that attacked the mountain that summer. Few details were ever evident in previous books (from the scientific side), and it was mind boggling to finally read and absorb the actual detailed conditions the climbers were faced with high up near the summit.It was also great to read some opinions and thoughts from other notable mountaineers and climbing guides on the subject, each giving their own insight to the mistakes, and problems the 12 man team faced while ascending the mountain, and relating it to their own experiences (some on the same mountain). Also want to point out that another plus to this new book was the inclusion of color photographs from the expedition from Howard Snyder's personal collection (in previous books, we were left to grainy black and white photos).At the end of the day, many questions will remain unanswered and some mysteries forever left unsolved about this climb, but thanks to Andy's incredible research, a thoughtful portrait of each climber, and their ascent up one of the largest mountains in the world has been painted, and I can't help but just admire and respect each and every one of them. They weren't showboats, they weren't world famous mountaineers; they were just young humbled college-aged kids who, while America was at war and in the midst of some type of revolution, just wanted to climb, and sadly due to some mistakes, and some horrendous bad luck, found themselves in the history books for the wrong reasons.It's hardly ever the details and descriptions of the vast mountains, or wild weather, or the "epicness" of the adventure that draw me to these stories, but moreso the people involved, and their story and their will to face something that is obviously much grander, vast, and much more powerful than they are. It's the elements of challenging, fighting, and enduring these conditions (sometimes winning, sometimes losing) that make it difficult for me to put these books down, Denali's Howl included.Whether you're familiar with this story or not, whether you enjoy mountaineering books or not, if you're looking for a true tale of fight and survival, triumph and tragedy, then I highly recommend you pick this up and experience the deadliest mountaineering disaster in American history.

Fast read as it is fluid and very well-written. Heart-pounding and -wrenching. Makes one feel engaged.Adult read as there is a lot of information.

It is hard to imagine another book being published about the Wilcox Tragedy on Denali, which happened 47 years ago. Four books have already been written about the disaster to date--the last came out in 2012--and was penned by me.My brother Bill Babcock, was the leader of what would become the rescue team. He had invited me along for the ride the previous fall of '66. I was then living on the East coast and attending college in Maine. The Mountaineering Club of Alaska had asked Bill to lead an expedition (the 53rd), which by chance trailed a week behind the Wilcox team. Both teams used the standard Muldrow Glacier / Karstens Ridge approach on the North side of Mount McKinley. When the worst storm in Denali's history exploded on top, our team was positioned to assist the five survivors, and to search the upper slopes and hopefully find the 7 missing climbers. At 19, I was not only the youngest and least experienced member of our group. I was also terrified by what lay ahead for our group.Andy Hall, whose father was Park Superintendent at the time has given us another version of this sad story, which he calls 'Denali's Howl.' Andy was five and living with his family in the park when the event took place in the summer of 1967. George Hall was Andy's father.Andy's book offers readers a carefully researched and thoroughly engrossing account of one of North American mountaineering's most controversial and heart-rendering stories. HIs narrative offers many varied and personal accounts of what happened, and he paints a vivid picture of each of the men on the 12-man Wilcox team. As I read Andy's descriptions I found myself changing some of my impressions of the climbers I met so many years ago.I also found Andy's description of Blaine Smith's 1997 ordeal on the upper slopes above Denali Pass enthralling--and very similar to what happened to my eight-person team on the South side of the mountain in 1977. Unless you have been caught out in the open during a frigid high altitude mountain storm, with winds of hurricane force, it is difficult to appreciate the thin line that truly exists between life and death. Andy describes this sheer terror with all the skill of a gifted writer. If you can't find shelter in such circumstances, you will most likely die in a very short span of time.'Denali's Howl' is a wonderful book, extremely well-written, well-documented, and a classic rendering of one of mountaineering's most terrifying tragedies.Jeff BabcockAuthor, 'Should I Not Return'[[ASIN:1594332703 Should I Not Return]

Interesting story, but the book lost all credibility in my eyes as of page 19 (see pictures attached) when they mention Mount Washington in Maine!!!! Hello !!! This is a book about climbing and such an error is just not acceptable ! FYI Mount Washington is in New Hampshire. Then on page 107 CAMP VII is said to be at 17,900 feet and one of the pictures is wrongly identified at being CAMP VI at the same elevation. (I’m referring to camp 6 & 7 being mixed up)This is crucial information considering what the book is about; precision is everything when it comes to climbing.I don’t care how good the story is, someone didn’t do their job at proofreading and it looses all credibility. Pity.

Non mi ero reso conto che i fatti si svolsero nel 1967. Il libro non è attuale e tanto meno i mezzi a disposizione per la scalata ed i soccorsi. Il libro e’ lento con una cronostoria quasi minuto per minuto che rende il libro noioso e privo di pathos.

amazing book

A very good book about Denali but is complicated because talks of two expeditions at the same time and if you are not a connaisseur of the mountain's story it can be hard to follow.

This should have been the greatest adventure. Twelve determined young climbers set out to fulfil a mighty ambition. They could see little ahead that would cause them a major problem. They would climb the mountain and enjoy the success. But the mountain they had chosen was Denali.Denali is the highest mountain in North America. It stands at 20,320 feet and soars a remarkable 18,000 feet from its base to the summit. It sits high in the troposphere where oxygen levels are low and the jet stream waits so close. Denali was not an easy mountain but the climbers had no major concern that it would be a particularly dangerous one.Denali’s Howl tells the poignant story of an expedition of 12 climbers led by Joe Wilcox who set out in June 1967 to climb the mountain. As with any group of such a size there were the inevitable arguments and discussions and, as the book reflects, mistakes were certainly made as the team pushed towards their objective. These were ambitious men with only positive and youthful thoughts. It was never in their minds that anything could prevent them achieving their goal. Twelve climbers headed for the summit but not all would return.Andy Hall writes sensitively and with great empathy about this frightening time. He casts no blame. If the expedition had been a success no one would have analysed mistakes and no one would have written a book. Andy writes of other storms that have tortured Denali and how climbers have barely escaped with their lives. Denali frightens climbers and many are reluctant to return and some do not. Andy reflects on the perhaps naïve ambition of these men. You can almost feel the cold take hold in Andy’s writing as the irresistible sense of defeat and loss and horror fill his chilling words. No one could have helped the trapped victims. There can be no pain like that of not being able to help lost friends. They howl but are unheard. Rescue attempts were made, but any effective searching was impossible and further rescue attempts would surely have ended in the loss of more lives.Denali’s Howl tells a story that is shrouded in painful mystery. The families and loved ones of these climbers will, I guess, never find complete peace or easy sleep. They have been told much about what may have happened but little makes sense or gives closure.We will never fully know or understand the horror these young men endured but we do know that they were all remarkable men who loved life and who all enthusiastically followed their thirst for adventure.