Keystone Electronic KTEB-120-1-TP Fluorescent Ballast 120 Volt (1) F20 T12

Used this to upgrade my Fresca clock backlight so that it could run a LED replacement tube. Needed and electronic ballast instead of the old magnetic one and starter. Super easy to wire in. The barcode sticker stuck over the top of the wiring diagram was not very helpful though. Also, there were vertical and horizontal tabs on the ballast. I had to remove the vertical ones to make it fit properly in the mounting location.

This was the exact replacement ballast I needed for my aqueon aquarium light with a 15" bulb. Replacing it was surprisingly easy. This was literally the first electrical work I had ever done. Please, learn from my experience.First thing is first, you probably already know about needing a phillips head screwdriver to get the reflector cover off and inside the light housing where the ballast is. But it will also be handy to have a flat head screwdriver, or some other small flat prying device. The pieces that hold the bulb, come out of the reflector cover. I think these are called tombstones? Actually they do kind of look like the shape of tombstones, so that's legit. Anyway, it is way easier to pull the old wires out of them if you remove them from the reflector part. These tombstones are just clipped in, but the side where you need to press down to unclip it is so close to a "wall" of the reflector cover, that it is near impossible to get your finger in there. This is where the flat head screwdriver comes in handy.If you also have this small of a light, be prepared to cut some wires. Since this ballast is made for a variety of lights, the wires are long enough to accomodate much longer lights than mine. I couldn't get all the extra wire to fit inside the housing, so I had to cut them shorter. And this would have been much easier if I would have had actual wire cutters/strippers. I got it done with needle nose pliars that have cutters on them, but it was a pain. I accidentally cut through a wire while I was trying to get the coating stripped off. Luckily I had left some extra length on it, for this exact reason. Which is still a good practice even if you use wire strippers. But ya, just spend a couple bucks and get a pair to make your life easier.Note: you'll need a pair of needle nose or regular pliars as well, for twisting/untwisting wire ends.Also, if you're an electrical novice like myself, I advise you replace one wire at a time. Meaning, take out one color of wires of old, replace them with new, then move on to the next color. That way you don't forget what color goes where.And one final note, when you get the ballast replaced and put a bulb in to see if it works, make sure the switch is off or point the light away from you. I had left the switch on mine on, didn't realize that, and didn't check that. I was so excited to find out if I'd fixed it...that I plugged it in with the bulb pointing at my face. Totally blinded myself for a second. Lol!

Under the cabinet light fixture

With the fluorescent fixtures getting harder to find and more expensive, this is a good value.I was particularly pleased with the wires on the unit as they are longer and thicker than I would have expected.

Replaced the ballast in an under-cabinet florescent light. Price is great! I also replaced the bulb, cost: $12.00. The pressure is on to convert everything to LED. I tried to replace the fixture with an LED fixture but it would have required breaking into the wall to reroute the house wiring to match the ports on the LED fixture. New LED fixture cost $60 vs about $15 for the ballast.

My 30 year-old single tube F20T12 fluorescent fixture started just warming up the filaments but never igniting the tube. I tried a new tube, but got the same results, so I knew the ballast must be bad. After receiving this ballast, I opened up the fixture and found the original Advance ballast, which was MUCH larger and heavier than the small, lightweight replacement. The wiring was a bit different for the new one, since previously one terminal on one end of the tube and the white wire to the old ballast were both wired to the neutral 120V supply. The new ballast has two red wires for the terminals on one end of the tube, two blue wires for the terminals on the other end, and a black and white wire for hot and neutral 120 V supply, respectively. Easy to install and it worked perfectly!

I installed it to a replace a bad ballast. Didn't work, would not fire up the 18" bulb. Would only partially ignite the bulb.

To fix our under counter lights that went out.