Compatible Mazda Miata Convertible Top with Plastic Window Black Cabrio 1989-2005

-Installation:I watched 3 Youtube videos, ordered the top, and put it on by spending a couple hours on it each day over the course of 4 days. Luckily for me it has been very dry during that time!spent 1 day getting the frame off the car, 1 day getting the old top off the frame, 1 day putting the new top on the frame(careful not to scratch it if you are doing this on a rough surface), and 1 day putting the frame back on the car.All of the videos I watched skimmed over the part where you put the frame back on the car. It's not that complicated, but its difficult since you're working in a tight space having to exert a lot of force to get that long middle rail bracket on. I put the two small rail brackets on first, but honestly I don't think that made the middle rail bracket any easier. Could have made it harder since there were some clearance issues between the rail brackets. For the big rail bracket, I ended up working from the drivers side and over, putting the nuts on one at a time(seems like a bad idea due to binding but it was the only way I could get it).I was sure not to tighten the rail bracket nuts down too much until I got the top latched. Latching it took some effort, trying from both sides but I got it on by loosening adjustment nut on the clamps so they have more reach. Lubing up the clamp mechanism itself with some silicone/teflon spray helped a lot.-The Top ItselfThere was one hole I was convinced was in the wrong spot but it turned out fine. Once I got one rivet in I pulled the hole into alignment and put the second rivet in. There are 2 pairs of rivets on each side. this was the pair that does not go under the metal strip.Loving the big window!I honestly settled on this top because it was the one that could get here the earliest.-Materials:-- Drill with bit to drill out old rivets-- Weather Strip Adhesive-- Phillips head screw driver-- needle nose pliers-- socket set (10mm and 12mm)-- some stiff wire to pull the tension cable through the top-- Rivet Gun-- 3/16" rivets, 1/8" were too small for me.-- silicone/teflon spray (great stuff to just have anyway)-Rain railLuckily for me, the last time this top was replaced 6 years ago, a new rain rail was installed and is still in great condition. I don't see the benefit of the rain rail being attached to the top itself. I saw another top from Sierra that had a rain rail attached and almost got that. Wouldn't be too hard to see your rain rail if you just pull up the carpet in the back. Mine had like a plaid texture to it so I knew it wasn't stock.--My ExperienceI don't work on cars. The most I've ever done is change oil and put a spare on. By spreading this out over a few days I feel like this is very doable for an average person albeit difficult for sure. I got a quote for $1200 I'm glad I saved myself almost 1000$ and it was great experience.

Bought it as a gift, as far as i know they still kept it on their car and had no issues with it.

I almost went for the expensive Robbins tops but being as this would be my first soft top install, I was afraid of damaging a $700ish top so I bought this one. Was initially dreading this project, but finally got to it once the weather got cold and rainy. Honestly, It was an enjoyable project. Pretty straightforward, especially with watching a Youtube video and following along.Pro-Tip: Once the top is installed, it will be extremely tight, especially in colder months. When trying to finally latch the top, I heated the cabin by hanging a space heater from a cross bar on the soft top frame for a bit (use caution with space heaters). Then i attached a ratchet strap on each side of the soft top frame to the corresponding door hinge. I carefully and equally tightened each side of the top until I could finally latch it.

I replaced my old rotting Robbins top (so now, I believe this car is on top #3.) when I bought my car in late 2022, it had a Robbins replacement top installed in mid 2020. So the fancy Robbins only lasted 3.5 years if that. I ended up removing the old top, rain rail, and tension cables but paid to have it all put back together, saving me half the labor.This top so far fits perfectly, except for one listing attachment goes unused when you mount this on an NB. My car also for some reason had holes drilled and riveted for the "elastic strap" workaround (which is ONLY for NAs when you install an NB top on them..so...idk what PO was doing.) I had new tension cables and a brand new rain rail installed. The plastic window is less than ideal in my opinion but I discovered someone had cut the defroster cable on my car anyways. And a glass/defrost top was easily double or triple the price of this thing. The tan looks so much better than the faded black, and the clear window is nice to have, old one was faded beyond belief and was almost completely fallen out. Wasn't really as much of a pain to close as everyone reports, my installer and I did have to push on it pretty good and eventually got it to latch but nothing unbearable.Funny enough, my top didn't latch super tightly, so unlike how everyone has to adjust their latches out fully (twisting that little turnbuckle to extend out the grabber thing on the latches), mine actually was able to be turned fully tight, which finally brought the header down flat, and firmly pushed the top forward and tight enough. I am not a convertible super fan, so I don't really plan on dropping it much. I know, I know. Miata's are still cool.Overall, very good quality and fit and finish for under $200. I hope it lasts as long as the Robbins, but who really cares?