The Gentleman's Wardrobe: Vintage-Style Projects to Make for the Modern Man
J**T
A Must-Have if You Love Classic Clothing; Includes 14 project patterns! Wow.
This project-based book is an unbelievable value. I've found that finding usable patterns for classic menswear can be a tedious and expensive endeavor. This book puts it all at your fingertips. Not only for men, but also for women who appreciate clean lines. What's covered is Daywear, Night Attire, Accessories, and at least 40 pages of techniques and resources. This book guides you through making a classic shirt, summer shirt, waistcoat, trousers, jacket, boxer shorts, pajamas, bathrobe (aka dressing gown), slippers, messenger bag, wallet, bow tie, cravat, and flat cap.For the cost of one pattern from most stores, you get a whole collection of 14 patterns for an entire wardrobe. Plus lots of clear illustrations and instructions, beautiful photographs that show the potential of how the pieces can compliment one another, and handy tips.This includes guides to reading patterns and taking measurements. The author doesn't assume that you have any sewing experience. While some of the projects are a little advanced for a novice, they're not impossible if you follow instruction well and don't rush. Also, there's a good range of projects -- including ones that are extremely easy; you can work you way up in difficulty and be inspired all along the way.Each project tells you upfront how much fabric is recommended for each size, the type of fabrics may work best, the notions/supplies needed, seam allowances, finished measurements and other notes. If you find that the pieces are too small or large for your needs beyond the options the author has already provided, I recommend that you get and learn how to use French curve and/or Styling Design rulers so that you can further adjust the pattern to your correct size.The only con of this book is that in order to provide so many patterns at such a low cost, all of them are printed on paper together -- they overlap. There are three large, double-sided, folded sheets in all, located in a handy pocket at the back of the book. The patterns are color-coded to make it a little easier but it's still a little overwhelming to the eye. You will have to carefully trace to make sure you copy the correct lines. Considering what you get, it's a small inconvenience for a great collection. To the author's credit, she does also helpfully include silhouettes of the individual pieces in each project, so you have a better idea of what you're looking for and the resulting shapes... plus the best way to arrange the pieces depending on the length or width of your fabric so that you can be as cost-efficient as possible.Some people will find the sizes to be way too small. I don't think the author is ignoring that there are larger people in the world. It's clear that looking at how the patterns are arranged, they would have had to have made larger sheets to account for significantly larger sizes and that would have raised the cost. Vintage sizing tended to be much smaller than today's averages, anyway. So, again, I recommend anyone concerned about this to learn how to use a French curve, then you can size the fit of virtually any pattern to your needs and modify styling as well, if you'd like. This goes for just about any source of patterns you will ever find.This is one of my favorite sewing books that I've ever purchased because it's so well-thought out, inspiring, and budget-friendly all at once. Not only for original garments but also helpful to understand possible alterations from, say, thrift store finds.
T**T
Good introduction for men's sewing for the beginner/intermediate sewist.
When you teach sewing classes in a city like Chicago, you end up with more men than you would have in smaller towns.Because of this, I bought "The Gentleman's Wardrobe" to add to my workroom library so that I can fill out a couple of voids in the collection up here.The book itself is a project-based book that walks you through the construction of a series of wardrobe basics - Shirt, Summer Shirt, Vest, Trousers, Jacket, Boxer Shorts, Pyjamas, Robe, and Slippers. It also has a few side projects for accessories: Mesenger Bag, Wallet, Bow Tie, Cravat, and Flat Cap.The garments themselves are simple basic patterns that can easily be adapted to both fit and style. This is marketed as a vintage-inspired wardrobe set, but with a few adaptations and thoughtful fabric selections, you can push the looks in other directions and eras.After the instructions for each garment there is a fairly thorough section on techniques and finishes, but this is not quite a stand-alone book. The beginner will definitely want a sewing encyclopedia or handbook in addition to this. The intermediate sewist will find it is definitely more of an all-in-one.The instructions are clear but very concise text with little elaboration and fleshed out with watercolor and ink renderings. They are clear and easy to understand but aren't particularly detailed. This is really where a secondary sewing manual would come in handy for the beginner.When I come across these kinds of sewing books to add to the shelves, I ask myself "Who was this written for? Who will get the most use out of it?" And I think there are a few answers here. I would highly recommend this book for:• Young sewists who want to have an initial entry into men's clothing• Anyone at the basic or intermediate level who wants to sew men's clothesI can especially see this as a nice gift for a younger sewist combined with a manual like the Reader's Digest Guide to Sewing or Vogue's Sewing Encyclopedia. I have a 16 year old who was just happy as a clam to see this up here.The projects themselves are not advanced in terms of the techniques used - and that is what makes this book very approachable for so many. You won't find a ton of fitting and tailoring information, and the sewing is kept to a very straightforward standard: no tricks and nit-picky sleight of hand sewing. There are tailoring and advanced sewing manuals for that.Overall, a great addition to the library here! If you are interested in a project-based, fairly self-contained book for men's projects and patterns, I highly recommend you give this a look.
L**E
Good guide for intermediate sewists - limited sizing range
This is a nicely illustrated book with patterns for interesting and fashionable garments and accessories. While it includes some basic information on sewing techniques, I don't think a beginner would be able to follow these instructions without additional help.So far, I have made the long-sleeve button up shirt and the short-sleeve camp collar pajama shirt. The patterns worked well in terms of fit, but I thought the 5/8" inch seam allowance included was excessive for many of the cut out pieces, which led to waste that could have been avoided. Not a huge deal, though.NOTE: The sizes provided are for slender, average height men! At 6'1" and ~180 lbs, I am usually a medium to large, but definitely a large with the patterns from this book. If you are not sewing for someone with this body type, you will need to alter the patterns or look elsewhere.
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